Costs for Repairs, Reconditioning and Rebuilding

Facts about Repairs, Reconditioning & Rebuilding
By Kim Bunker

There is no understanding among technicians as to what constitutes a reconditioning as opposed to a rebuilding. Reconditioning is a less thorough process using a minimum of new parts, and working largely with original parts, whereas rebuilding involves using whatever new parts are necessary to make the piano function at its maximum potential. However, the dividing line between these two procedures is not clearly defined. In some instances reconditioning can involve using several new parts; seldom does a rebuilding include using all new parts

A reconditioning is called for when a piano has been allowed to go for several years without regular piano service (tuning and annual maintenance.) There is still enough hammer left to file, and the piano is tunable. The piano is thoroughly cleaned; the action tightened, freed of lost motion, and regulated; the hammers reshaped, fitted to the strings and voiced; the pedals and dampers are adjusted; and whatever else is necessary is done to restore the piano to its best playing condition. The action centers may be so worn that they need to be re-pinned or even re-bushed. If the existing parts are not too worn, and if the work is done thoroughly the piano may give several years of satisfactory service before needing major attention again.

Rebuilding can refer to most any operation, ranging from just adding new hammers to replacing almost everything but the original piano shell. It can include restringing and new tuning pins, a new pinblock, a new soundboard or repairing the old one, new hammers, new hammer shanks, new whippen's, new white key coverings (IVORIANS), new black keys, new key buttons, keys re-bushed, new back checks, all action felt replaced, new damper felt, pedal assembly overhauled, plate, soundboard, the entire piano refinished, hardware re-plated, and whatever else may be necessary to make the piano look, sound, and perform like a new instrument.

Just how much should be replaced in a rebuilding is the difficult question. Should a minimum of replacements be made using as many of the original parts as possible, or should everything be replaced so that it is practically a new piano, or should it be something between these two extremes? The cost, the condition of the existing parts, and the quality of the new parts available will all be important factors in the decision. Generally, the more thorough the rebuilding the greater the cost, and the longer one can expect trouble-free performance. There will be parts that must be replaced, and other parts whose replacement will be optional. If the parts are in good condition and seem to have many years of wear left it would seem advisable not to replace them. It is important when comparing estimates to also compare the amount of work needed, including the number and quality of parts being replaced.

Pianos are precision engineered musical instruments consisting of as many as 9,000 parts. There are no shortcuts to rebuilding a piano properly. No matter how regularly and expertly a piano is serviced there will come a time when it can no longer function satisfactorily without major repairs. It is necessary to recondition or rebuild when there is no more felt left on the hammers to file and voice, or the tuning pins are so loose that the piano can no longer be tuned.

Probably more important than what is to be done in a rebuilding is who is to do the rebuilding. Just as in the other phase of piano technology there is a vast difference in the knowledge and workmanship of those who do rebuilding. It can not be assumed that a re-builder can execute each operation in a rebuilding process as skillfully as it was originally done in the factory where the worker does one operation over and over again day after day. It is generally considered that a good re-builder can at best restore the piano to 90% of its original quality, although one or two re-builders do have the reputation of doing work superior to that done in the factory.

Experience is an important factor in rebuilding. It is highly unlikely that a regular technician who only rebuilds one or two pianos a year will have the same expertise as one whose main work is rebuilding. It does not necessarily follow that one who is a fine tuner, very conscientious and highly trustworthy, is also a good re-builder. The results of a rebuilding are somewhat unpredictable, and often there is little recourse if it does not turn out satisfactory. Sometimes the only solution to a poor rebuilding is to do the complete job over again which can prove very costly. It is important to know your re-builder, and to know the quality of work he does. References are always and excellent way of checking out there work. also there reputation in the community Possibly by checking with The Better Business Burial

When a piano is completely rebuilt it may look, sound, and feel like a new piano, and can be expected to give many years of quality performance if properly serviced. A discussion of the various phases of rebuilding is designed to give help in coping with the many decisions necessary regarding rebuilding.

Action Reconditioning
Set hammer rest rail
Lost motion regulation
Level and dip keys and change needed under key felt
Back check regulation
Regulate let-off
Tighten pedal screws
Lube pedal rods
Re felt pedals
Clean case
Touch up damper regulation
Check for clicks, bobbles, broken parts and fix them Various tasks
Clean tuning pins, strings
Vacuum inside & back side of piano
Blow out action with compressed air
Clean keys Glue down loose ivories
Replace missing ivory with matching vintage ivory
If the keyboard has more than 15 ivories missing we recommend to replace the Old keytops with Ivorian (Simulated Ivory) made of Teflon and is very durable.
Replace all rubber bumpers
Replace name board felt with Royal George Felt (Chemically treated to eliminate infiltration of moths and their eggs from destroying the felt) also its Cedar scented.

A More Complete Restoration includes all of the above according to the needs of the individual piano:

Action Reconditioning

Manually check all flanges and re pin loose ones
Replace back check buckskin leather
Teflon hammer butts
Replace damper head felt

In addition

Re bush keys
Clean key pins
Full de rust of bass strings
Seat strings
Epoxy minor bass bridge cracks & high treble cracks
Repair minor soundboard cracks
Major case cleaning and detailing
Remove and clean all hardware
Replace all pedal trapping felt and leather
Reactivate glue joints Lubricate damper lift rod


Loose tuning pins are usually the first sign that restringing should be considered, although in some cases the tone may seriously degenerate before loose pins occur. Strings begin to lose their elasticity and best tone quality after about twenty five years or so, although the deterioration can be so gradual that the tone is acceptable for several more years. Only when the piano is restrung is one made aware of the difference between the new and the old strings.

Only on rare occasions will one re pin with oversized pins without restringing work, since under normal conditions pins stay tight for longer than twenty years. It may be possible and advisable to delay restringing a few years by driving the pins slightly further into the pin block, but generally when the pins are loose it is time to restring. The PTG (Piano Technicians Guild) now is making recommendations to the tuners in the field to apply cyanoacrylate glue (Krazy Glue) to the pin block to help tighten the loose Pins.

When restringing there is always the decision as to whether to use the old pin block or install a new one. There are five tuning pin sizes ranging from #2 to #6, OTT that the old block can be used with over-sized pins if it can be determined that it is sound. If a chemical pin tightened has been used, or if there is any doubt about the condition of the present block, it is advisable to install a new one. However, the successful installation of a new pin block requires much skill and experience on the part of the re-builder. The fit must be exact, and the holes drilled evenly at just the right angle 7 degrees to insure an even, tight pin throughout.

The use of a chemical to tighten loose pins by swelling the wood in the pin block is often successful, but somewhat controversial. Its use may be acceptable on an inexpensive piano to give it a few more years of life when the quality of the instrument hardly justifies the cost of restringing, but to use it on a quality piano is questionable. Chemicals can so destroy the wood fibers around the tuning pins that it is necessary to replace the pin block. Since the strings have lost much of their life by the time the tuning pins become loose, it hardly seems advisable to risk ruining the pin block just to use the dead strings for a few more years. New strings will improve the tone of the piano immensely nearly by 85%

Some may feel that frequent tunings may lead to premature loosening of the pins. This could be true if a poor tuning technique is used which bends the pins or involves several large up and down motions for tuning each pin. But it is not a significant factor when a correct tuning hammer technique is used that involves one or two tiny movements for tuning each pin. A piano used in concert work may be tuned more times in one year than the ordinary piano tuned regularly would be tuned in fifty years, yet without showing significant change in the tightness of the pins. In addition to poor tuning hammer technique the other factor that leads to premature loose tuning pins is repeated drastic humidity changes from season to season.

Full Action Rebuild and Restringing.
New hammers
Or new hammers and shanks with reconditioned butts (Possibly on new hammer flanges)
Or new hammers, shanks and butts
If brass butt flanges are present remove the rail and anneal the rail and replace all brass butt
Replace hammer springs plates
Replace hammer rail felt
Replace hammer springs rail felt Rework Whippen's

There are various variations on this theme
Clean and graphite jacks
Replace jack springs
Re pin all whippen and sticker flanges
Perhaps replace flanges
Reactivate glue on jack saddles or re glue saddles


Replace damper lever felt
Remove and re felt damper lever felt
Replace damper springs
Re pin damper flanges or replace flanges
Rework bridges
Perchance replace bass bridge
Change key pins or buff
Detail of spacing and timing.

Piano Restoration Price List:
Below is a general price list for piano restoration.
These prices are based on instruments in average, un-restored condition,
and are subject to change depending on the degree of deterioration of your instrument.

These are regional estimates only. Consult with your rebuilder.

Complete upright piano rebuilding, including refinishing & restringing
*Please note that some very rare and unique antique upright pianos may deserve and require higher restoration costs
$2,900.00 - $9,500.00

Upright piano refinishing only (Closed Pore 21 coat finish) Satin or Gloss Nitrocellulose Lacquer finish which is impervious to Alcohol & Water. This finish will not fade or crack when exposed to sunlight.
$2,500.00 - 4,650.00

Upright player piano rebuilding, including refinishing & restringing
$7,450.00 - 10,500.00

Square grand piano restoration, including refinishing & restringing
$6,500.00 - 10,000.00

Parlor organ restoration: Recovering bellows, re-leathering pallet values, replacing all pallet springs, cleaning and voicing all reeds and including a complete refinish of the case.
$1,650.00 - 3,625.00

Baby grand piano restoration, including refinishing, restringing, & restoring original soundboard
$6,500.00 - 8,500.00

Large grand piano restoration, including refinishing, restringing, & restoring original soundboard
$6,675.00 - 13,750.00

Large grand piano restoration, including refinishing, restringing, & installing a NEW soundboard (We do not recommend this process) Most all soundboards can be re-crowned and shimmed. REMEMBER THIS: (THE HEART OF THE PIANO IS THE SOUNDBOARD)
$12,000.00 -15,000.00

Baby grand and large grand piano (refinishing only)
$3,350.00 - 7,500.00

Computerized player mechanism installation. Upright and Grand pianos (only) Our recommended system is the Pianomation. The reason is; 1. The Warranty its the best available in the business and most of all 2. Their reliability is unsurpassed...
$5,495.00 - 7,855.00

Computerized player mechanism installation (square grand pianos only) The only effective player we recommend for this piano is the NEW Retro fit PianocorderCD This system plays softer than the other digital systems and has and excellent 355 hour CD library...
$3,795.00 - 6,100.00

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